
Pruning wisteria: when and how, by type
By the GardenWorld editorial team, updated on
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Wisteria is pruned twice a year. In July you cut back this year's long shoots to about six buds, around 12 to 15 cm. In January, when the plant is bare, you cut the same side shoots back further to two or three buds (5 to 8 cm), just above a fat, round flower bud. Leave the thick main branches: they form the framework from which the flower clusters hang.
Pruning wisteria by situation: the table
| Type or situation | When | How deep | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Young plant, year 1 to 3 | Year 1 tie in, from year 2 in March | Year 1 no pruning, then choose 2 to 3 main shoots and cut the rest to 3 to 4 buds | Wisteria in the first years |
| First time pruning | July | Cut back the long shoots of this year substantially | When you prune wisteria for the first time |
| Summer pruning | July | Side shoots to about 6 buds (12 to 15 cm) | Summer pruning in July |
| Preparing summer pruning | May | Don't cut anything yet, mark long shoots | Preparing wisteria in May |
| Winter pruning | January; in February only dead wood | Side shoots to 2 to 3 buds (5 to 8 cm) | Winter pruning in January |
| Winter maintenance | January | Dead wood, tangled branches and shoots that are too long | The second pruning session |
| Over a pergola | July and January | Side shoots as above, main shoots remain | Wisteria over a pergola |
| Not flowering | July and January | Both pruning sessions, plus enough sun | Wisteria not flowering |
| Too large or neglected | In stages, over two years | Year 1 to about 1 m, year 2 to 50 cm | Wisteria against overgrowth |
Chinese, Japanese and other species
Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) grows most vigorously and flowers early, often before the foliage is fully out. You can cut it back hard in July. Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) grows a little more calmly and has longer clusters; with a cultivar like 'Multijuga' you cut back to three buds rather than two in winter. Wisteria brachybotrys is a moderate grower that manages with light summer pruning. The method is the same for all species: two pruning sessions, only the depth differs.
Young wisteria: first a framework
A newly planted wisteria is not pruned in the first year. You tie the long shoots gently along wire, trellis or a pergola, preferably horizontally or at an angle: this gives more flowers later. From the second year you choose the two or three strongest shoots as main branches in March and cut back the rest to three to four buds. In July of that year the first real summer pruning follows. A young wisteria needs some patience before it flowers well.
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Mature: summer pruning in July
In July the plant has produced long, thin shoots. You cut these back to about six buds from where they emerge from the branch. It's about the number of buds, not the length. Leave enough foliage so the plant stays healthy, and remove shoots that grow into the gutter, over windows or around pipes. Preparation can start in May: in preparing wisteria in May you can read how to recognise the long shoots. A second description of the same pruning with tips on feeding is in wisteria summer pruning in July.
Mature: winter pruning in January
Photo by Bernd 📷 Dittrich on Unsplash
In winter the plant is bare and you can see the buds clearly. Flower buds are round and fat and often sit in clusters; growth buds are small and pointed. You cut back the side shoots that you already shortened in July to two or three buds, always just above a flower bud. Dead wood, tangled branches and shoots that grow too far beyond the support also come out. Then tie the remaining branches loosely and securely again.
Over a pergola
Photo by Jaroslaw Laka on Unsplash
On a pergola the main shoots grow up the posts and over the beams. You don't prune these main shoots in July or January: they form the framework. The side shoots that hang down from the beams get the same two pruning sessions and carry the clusters. If you want more light through the pergola, cut these side shoots a little shorter in July.
If the wisteria doesn't flower
A wisteria that has only produced foliage for years is usually not pruned or pruned too cautiously. Start with summer pruning in July and do the winter pruning in January; flowers often follow after one or two years. Too little sun (less than six hours a day) and too much nitrogen also inhibit flowering. A plant from seed can take a very long time or never flower properly.
If you're unsure where a wisteria looks best, against the wall or over a pergola, with a garden design you can see on a photo of your own garden how it fits with the rest of the planting.
Step-by-step plan
Step 1: Prune the long shoots in July
Find the long, thin shoots that have grown this year. Leave the thick main branches alone.
Step 2: Cut to about six buds
Cut each long side shoot back to about six buds, around 12 to 15 cm from the base of that shoot. Leave enough foliage.
Step 3: Remove shoots that are in the way
Cut shoots in the gutter, over windows or around pipes completely away.
Step 4: Recognise the flower buds in winter
In January, when the plant is bare, look for the fat, round flower buds. The pointed buds are growth buds.
Step 5: Cut to two or three buds
Cut the same side shoots back to two or three buds (5 to 8 cm), always just above a flower bud.
Step 6: Tidy up and tie again
Remove dead wood and tangled branches, and tie the remaining branches loosely with soft twine or ties. Clear away the prunings: wisteria seed pods are poisonous.
The last good moment
Do summer pruning in July, preferably early or mid-July and at the latest end of July; in August a light correction for shape is still possible. Do winter pruning in January, as long as the plant is dormant; after that leave a mature plant alone until after flowering. In February growth already begins: if you're too late, only cut away dead wood.
Rejuvenating: how far can you cut back?
A wisteria that hasn't been pruned for years tolerates hard pruning, but do it in stages. In the first year cut all shoots back to about 1 metre and the following year to 50 cm, then resume the regular summer and winter pruning. Expect one or two seasons with few flowers; leave the thick main branches.
Can you prune wrongly? The most common mistakes
Yes. The most common mistakes: skipping summer pruning or cutting too cautiously (lots of foliage, few flowers), cutting above a pointed growth bud in winter instead of above a round flower bud, and shortening the thick main branches that form the framework. Pruning in May or June also costs flowers or only encourages new shoots.
Frequently asked questions
When is it not good to prune?
Don't prune wisteria in May, during flowering, and not in June: it's too early then and the plant immediately produces new long shoots. Don't postpone summer pruning until autumn either, because then the plant has no time left to form flower buds. In winter stay away from the fat, round flower buds.
How far back to prune?
In July you cut back the long side shoots to about six buds, around 12 to 15 cm. In January you go further, to two or three buds (5 to 8 cm). Even shorter, to one bud, actually gives fewer flowers. Don't cut into the thick main branches.
What can't wisteria tolerate?
Wisteria flowers poorly in deep shade: the plant wants at least six hours of sun a day. Too much nitrogen gives lots of foliage and few flowers, and tight tying material cuts into the branches that get thicker every year. Against a wall without sturdy support it grows untidily and can damage mortar joints.
Can I prune wisteria in September?
For summer pruning September is too late: the shortened shoots then have too little time to form flower buds. Shoots that grow into the gutter or over a window may be removed. Save the real hard pruning for January, and next summer prune again in July.
How do you recognise flower buds on wisteria?
Flower buds are round and fat and often sit in clusters of two or three. Growth buds are smaller, pointed and stand alone. In winter, when the plant is bare, you can see the difference best; then always cut just above a flower bud.
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