Pruning an olive tree: when and how, by type or situation
By the GardenWorld editorial team, updated on
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You prune an olive tree in spring, in April or May, when no more severe frost is expected. First remove dead wood and crossing branches, then open the heart of the crown so you can push your hand through it, and remove upright-growing shoots. Take away no more than 15 to 20 per cent of the crown per year. Shape a young tree in the first two years into a vase: a stem of 30 to 40 cm with three or four framework branches. In summer you only trim lightly until early August; from October to March you do not prune.
Pruning an olive tree by situation
| Type or situation | When | How deep | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| Young olive tree with central stem, formative pruning year 1 | April | Choose three to four framework branches, remove the rest; the leader to 60 to 80 cm above the framework branches | Pruning an olive tree for shaping |
| Young olive tree, formative pruning year 2 | April | Framework branches to 40 to 50 cm, keep two to three side branches on each branch | Pruning an olive tree for shaping |
| Building a vase shape with open centre | April, in years 1 and 2 | Stem of 30 to 40 cm, three to four framework branches, remove the leader above | Olive tree in vase shape |
| Mature tree, annual pruning | April | Remove dead wood and crossing branches, open the centre; 15 to 20 per cent per year | Olive tree in vase shape |
| Keeping an olive tree smaller | April | Slightly harder: 25 to 30 per cent of growth per year | Pruning an olive tree for shaping |
| Summer pruning | July and August, light | Only upright-growing shoots and overly long branches | Olive tree in vase shape |
| Olive tree outdoors in the Netherlands and Belgium | May to early August | Mainly on the outside, to keep it compact | Olive tree outdoors |
| Old, oversized olive tree | May to early August, spread over two years | Together up to half the crown | Olive tree outdoors |
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Shaping a young olive tree
The first years determine the shape of the olive tree for the rest of its life. In April choose three or four healthy, well-distributed branches as framework branches and cut away the remaining side branches, including the low ones on the stem. In the second year you choose two or three side branches on each framework branch and keep the branches roughly equal in strength. After two years the framework is established. How this works step by step is explained in pruning an olive tree for shaping.
Do first choose which shape you want, because the two guides treat the leader, the straight central stem, differently. If you want a tree with a continuous central stem, you leave the leader standing and cut it back to 60 to 80 cm above the framework branches; this gives branching higher in the tree. If you want the classic vase with an open centre, you cut the leader completely away above the framework branches, as in olive tree in vase shape.
Maintaining the vase shape
The classic olive tree has a short stem and an open centre, so that air and light reach into the crown. You maintain this shape with one pruning session per year in April: remove dead wood, remove the weaker of two branches that touch each other, and keep the centre open without making an empty cage of it. A new leader that shoots straight up in the middle, you cut away immediately. Everything about angles, symmetry and the summer session is in pruning an olive tree in vase shape.
Olive tree outdoors and in a pot
In our climate an olive tree is best placed in the warmest spot in the garden or in a spacious pot that you can bring inside during severe frost. A tree that stands outdoors you prune mainly on the outside to keep it compact; a compact crown also catches less wind. Wet feet in winter are worse for it than a frosty night, as explained in olive tree outdoors in the Netherlands and Belgium. An olive tree in a pot you prune at the same times as in the ground, just a bit tighter. If you want to see where an olive tree looks best in your garden, first create a garden design of your own garden.
Step-by-step plan
Step 1: Choose a dry day in April or May
Wait until no more severe frost is expected. Do not prune in winter and not in wet weather.
Step 2: View the tree from all sides
Walk around the tree and look where dead wood is, where the crown is becoming dense and which side is heavier. Decide beforehand what needs to go.
Step 3: Remove dead and damaged wood
Cut back everything that is brown, bare or damaged to healthy wood. Use sharp secateurs and a saw for branches thicker than 3 cm.
Step 4: Open the centre
Cut away the weaker of two branches that cross or touch each other and thin out the middle until you can push your hand through the crown.
Step 5: Remove upright-growing shoots
Cut away shoots that grow straight up or come from the stem, or prune them back to an outward-facing bud.
Step 6: Check the balance
Step back and look whether the tree is roughly equally heavy on all sides. Take away no more than 15 to 20 per cent of the crown in total.
The last good moment
A light prune can be done until early August. After that the olive tree prepares for winter and you only remove dead wood. From October to March you do not prune: fresh wounds and young shoots are then susceptible to frost. If you are too late, wait until April.
Rejuvenating: how far can you cut back?
An olive tree tolerates pruning well, even a substantial one. An old, oversized tree you can reduce to about half the crown, but spread this over two years and prune between May and early August, when it is growing vigorously. Work preferably with secateurs and avoid large, deep saw wounds.
Can you prune wrongly? The most common mistakes
Yes. The three mistakes made most often: taking away too much every year, which weakens the tree, heavy pruning in autumn or winter, which allows frost to take hold of fresh wounds, and letting the crown grow dense, so that air and light no longer enter. Also leaving a new leader standing in the centre is a classic: it pulls the vase shape crooked.
Frequently asked questions
In which month is it best to prune an olive tree?
Best in April or May, when no more severe frost is expected and the tree is starting its growth. A light summer prune can be done until early August. From October to March you do not prune, or only dead wood.
What is the last moment to prune an olive tree?
A light prune can be done until early August. After that the tree prepares for winter and you only remove dead wood. A heavy prune in autumn makes the tree more susceptible to frost damage.
How far back can you prune an olive tree?
In the annual prune you take away 15 to 20 per cent of the crown; if you want to keep it smaller, then 25 to 30 per cent of growth per year. An old, oversized tree can be cut back to half the crown, but spread this over two years. Preferably use sharp secateurs and avoid large saw wounds.
Can you prune an olive tree incorrectly?
Yes. Anyone who takes away much more than a fifth every year weakens the tree and the vase shape collapses. Heavy pruning in winter or late autumn gives a risk of frost damage. And anyone who never thins out gets a dense crown in which moisture lingers and fungi have more opportunity.
What can an olive tree not tolerate?
An olive tree tolerates wet feet poorly: soil in which water remains standing in winter causes the roots to rot. Also prolonged severe frost damages it; most varieties from the garden centre struggle around minus 8 to minus 10 degrees. And it wants full sun, preferably against a south wall or on a sheltered terrace.
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