Pruning lavender: when, how deep and by species

Prune lavender twice a year: after flowering, from late July to late August, and in March. After flowering, cut away the spent stems and remove about a third of the plant, down to around 30 cm height. In March, remove dead parts and tidy the mound; if you prefer the main prune in spring, cut true lavender back to 30 to 40 cm, roughly half of last year's growth. In both cases, cut only into the green, leafy part: lavender will not regrow from bare, brown wood. French and Spanish lavender differ, as shown by species in the table below.

Pruning lavender by species and situation

Young lavender: the first prune

Prune young lavender for the first time in early spring, from March to mid-April, when no severe frost is expected. Cut away only the youngest 10 to 15 cm of green growth and shape the shrub into a rounded half-dome. This first prune establishes the foundation for a compact plant; how to approach it is explained in pruning lavender for the first time. Leave a newly planted French lavender untouched for the first season, as described in pruning French lavender.

Mature lavender: two pruning times per year

For mature true lavender, the prune after flowering is most important. When most flowers have dried, cut off the flower stems and remove about a third of the length, so the plant regrows from below. Within two to three weeks, new shoots appear. Exactly when and how deep is explained in pruning lavender in August and in pruning lavender for the second time.

In March follows the second prune: remove dead stems from last year, trim protruding branches and restore the dome shape. These two prunes together keep the shrub compact; why this prevents woodiness is explained in preventing woody lavender. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia), such as 'Grosso', is pruned the same way; this large species tolerates hard pruning well, to a third of the height, as explained in pruning lavender a second time.

After flowering or in March?

You may choose which of the two prunes is the main one. The guide for true lavender places the main prune in March: the whole plant back to 30 to 40 cm, roughly half of last year's growth, and in summer only the spent flowers removed. The guides on August and preventing woodiness place the emphasis directly after flowering, with only a light shaping prune in March. Choose one of the two as the main prune and keep the other light. The rule remains the same in both cases: always cut just above the lowest green growth and never into bare wood.

Woody or neglected lavender

If your lavender is bare and woody at the base, first check whether there is still life in it. Bend a lower branch: if it breaks immediately, it is dead. Scratch away a small piece of bark: if there is green underneath, the plant can recover. In that case, cut it back to 15 to 20 cm in March and ensure well-drained soil, as explained in rescuing woody lavender. If you prefer to work gradually, follow the three-year rejuvenation plan. If nothing grows from the brown wood, a new plant is usually the better choice.

French and Spanish lavender

French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is more sensitive to wet winters and should be pruned only in March or April, when the first new leaves appear. In summer, remove only spent flowers; do not prune in autumn. Spanish lavender (Lavandula pinnata) flowers for longer and tolerates more pruning sessions: a shaping prune in March, a light prune after the first flowering in May or June and another light one in early September. If you are unsure which lavender you have, see which lavender species to choose. If you are still looking for a spot for lavender, you can first try it out in a garden design of your own garden and see how the shrubs look along the path or in the border.

Step-by-step plan

Step 1: Choose the moment after flowering

Wait until most flowers have dried, usually between late July and late August. Prune on a dry day and not during flowering.

Step 2: Find the boundary between green and brown wood

Look below the flower stems where the green, leafy part transitions to bare, brown wood. Do not cut below that boundary.

Step 3: Cut away the flower stems and a third of the foliage

Using sharp secateurs or hedge shears, remove the spent stems together with about a third of the length, down to around 30 cm height for a mature shrub. Stay in the green growth.

Step 4: Shape the shrub into a rounded form

Cut the top slightly less than the sides, creating a rounded, compact dome. This allows rain to run off well and prevents the shrub from splitting open.

Step 5: Clear up and water during drought

Remove the prunings and water for the first two weeks if it is dry, without letting the soil remain waterlogged. Within a few weeks, new green growth appears.

Step 6: Tidy the shrub in March

In March, remove dead stems and twigs, trim protruding shoots and restore the dome shape. Again, do not cut into brown wood.