How to prune a cherry tree in summer after harvest

Why summer pruning after harvest is different

Your cherry tree has just finished harvest (July-August). It has poured energy into fruit. Now it grows cautiously. This is the moment for light, targeted summer pruning - but not the same as winter or spring pruning.

Important: summer pruning of cherries is risky for bacterial canker. Wounds heal slowly in hot August. So you prune carefully - only necessary work, not more.

The benefits of summer pruning, however, are real. Branches that have grown dense all summer, you can now thin. Damaged wood from harvest you can remove. And you set up more air in the canopy for next spring.

What you find after harvest

In August you likely see:

• Side shoots that have grown much (thin, still flexible)
• Damaged branches (broken from picking, rubbing)
• Monilia cankers (brown, sunken areas - now visible)
• Low-hanging branches heavy from fruiting last year

All of this you can address now.

Preparation for summer pruning

What you need:

• Sharp secateurs (dull ones damage wood more in summer)
• Disinfection solution (5% bleach + water)
• Gloves
• Possibly saw for thick branches

Timing: Late July-August, not early August (too much stress) and not September (too close to autumn diseases).

Step 1: Remove broken wood

Right after harvest you likely see:

• Branches broken during picking
• Branches damaged by wind
• Wood with rubbing wounds

What you do:

• Saw damaged pieces off completely
• Cut back until you reach smooth, healthy wood
• Make no stumps - always cut past the damage

Broken wood does not heal - it rots. Away with it.

Step 2: Remove visible monilia cankers

Now monilia cankers are clearly visible (brown, sunken):

What you do:

• Find all cankers on your tree
• Saw at least 15-20 cm beyond visible brown wood
• Ensure you do not cut into other healthy wood
• Let disease waste fall (not on growing parts)

This is crucial. Monilia is now entering branches, and you can save much with pruning.

Step 3: Thin densely growing side shoots

Over summer many side shoots have grown dense. These are normal growth shoots (not fruits), and they can clog the canopy:

What you do:

• Find side shoots that touch or cross each other
• Remove the weaker or inward-growing ones
• Ensure at least 5-10 cm space between side shoots
• Cut them away entirely, not just shorten

Why cut entirely rather than shorten? Because half-shortened wood two months later starts regrowing densely again.

Step 4: Open low-hanging branches

Branches hanging to the ground after heavy fruiting:

What you do:

• Tie them up with soft rope (gently, not strangling)
• Or cut them back to an upward-facing bud
• Ensure air can circulate under your tree

Low branches are moisture traps and monilia risk.

Step 5: Shorten side shoots after primary limbs

Side shoots on your primary limbs can now be lightly shortened (not removed):

What you do:

• Examine side shoots on primary limbs
• If longer than 20-30 cm, cut back to 3-4 buds
• This stimulates more fruiting spurs next spring

This is optional - the tree grows fine without. But it helps future structure.

Step 6: Check overall form

What you do:

• Step back and view your tree
• Is one area very dense? Thin there.
• Is a branch hanging very low? Tie or cut back.
• Are there dead leaves hanging? Remove.

This is not precision work - it is growth cleanup.

Timing is everything in summer pruning

What you NEVER do:

• No major work in early August (tree still in stress)
• No pruning after mid-September (autumn coming, wounds close)
• No pruning in heat waves (above 30 degrees)
• No pruning in wet weeks (moisture and disease)

What you DO:

• Late July to early September
• In normal temperatures (15-25 degrees)
• After dry days (tree recovers better)

Caution with large cuts

Summer pruning means small to medium cuts. No major branch sawing:

What is large:

• Branches thicker than 3-4 cm
• Branches that take you two hours to saw
• Cuts bigger than your hand

Avoid these in summer. Wounds heal slowly; bacterial canker gets chances.

Frequently asked questions

Should I use wound dressing on summer cuts?

No. Leave wounds open - they heal better without. Dressing can introduce bacterial canker.

Can I still prune my cherry in September?

Carefully. Early September yes (still warm). After the 15th better not - the tree prepares for winter.

I saw many monilia cankers - prune heavily?

Yes, remove all. This is no longer prevention - you rescue what you can. Saw generously past cankers.

My tree does not grow much in summer - must I still prune?

Yes, differently. If your tree lacks growth in July-August, it is already weakened. Cut away dead/diseased wood, but no major work. Light feeding.

After summer pruning I see new shoots growing - is this bad?

No. This is called "naked pruning" - the tree regrows. Normal. In September those shoots will slow as temperatures drop.

Step-by-step

Step 1: Inventory (late July)

Walk around your tree. Note where to prune: broken wood, cankers, dense areas.

Step 2: Remove broken wood

Find everything broken or damaged. Saw smooth away.

Step 3: Remove visible cankers

Find brown, sunken areas. Saw at least 15 cm past them.

Step 4: Thin dense side shoots

Remove side shoots that touch. Work outside inward.

Step 5: Open low-hanging branches

Tie up or cut back. Ensure air circulation under canopy.

Step 6: Shorten side shoots on primary limbs

Shorten to 3-4 buds (optional).

Step 7: Check

Step back, view tree. Anything odd or unnatural? Adjust.

Small cultivar differences

Regina, Lapins: Grow dense in summer. Aggressive thinning helps.

Stella, Kordia: Somewhat more open naturally. Less summer pruning needed.

Sweetheart: Very susceptible to bacterial canker. Minimalist summer pruning. Dead wood only.

After summer pruning: careful watering

Pruned trees have more water needs (more open, more evaporation):

• Water at base, not overhead
• Keep soil moist, not wet
• Water in cool mornings (6-8 am)

This helps the tree recover from pruning.

Preparing for autumn and winter

After summer pruning your tree prepares for autumn:

• Growth slows
• Leaves colour
• Tree enters dormancy

This is normal. Your tree will be stronger in March from summer pruning.

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