How to prune a young cherry tree: forming years 1-4

Why young cherries are pruned differently

You can cut apple trees hard - they heal fast and cooperate. Cherry trees are more cautious about health. Bacterial canker waits for large cut wounds. This does not mean you skip pruning young cherries - quite the opposite, you must form them. But you do it carefully, step-by-step, and not in March.

The other major difference: cherries grow much more lateral (wide) than apples. A young cherry naturally becomes a "shrub" faster than a "tree with clear leader." This is not bad - you learn to work with it.

Third rule: young cherries want to grow. If you hard-prune them in year 1, they stress. So: careful, step-by-step, only when needed.

Planting to year 1: do nothing

You have planted a young cherry tree in March or April. Good. That first summer and autumn: leave it alone. No pruning. Give water, compost in spring, but secateurs stay in the shed.

By November-December of year 1 (now dormant), you can look for the first time. But do not cut yet - wait until May of year 2.

May of year 2: first real pruning

Now you can see what has grown. Usually you see:

• A central shoot that has grown upward (good)
• Or five-six sturdy side shoots from low down (also good for cherries)
• Maybe a few thin, awkwardly grown twigs (those go)

What you do in May of year 2:

1. Remove weak wood. Thin, poorly grown twigs that are not strong - they will not make it. Cut them away completely.

2. Remove damage. Are there branches broken, damaged, or with fungal damage? Away with them.

3. Leave strong wood. If you have 2-3 good, thick branches growing upward, let them grow. Do NOT cut them back - this is cherry in year 2, not apple.

4. Prefer angled branches. Do your side shoots grow more or less horizontally or under 45 degrees? Fine. Do they grow almost upright? Let them grow, they will naturally spread.

After May of year 2, your tree may look somewhat messy (more branches than apple at the same age). That is okay.

May to August of year 2: allow growth

After your first pruning in May, your tree grows fast. Let it. Water in dry spells. No further pruning. The tree builds reserves and structure.

By August of year 2, you can gently check: is a branch rubbing the trunk or nearly touching the ground? You can remove that. But normally: let it grow.

May of year 3: second pruning cycle

Now you have a tree with two growth seasons behind it. Usually you see:

• One or more strong central shoots
• Side shoots on those shoots
• Perhaps some awkward or drooping branches

What you do:

1. Choose 3-4 strong limbs. These become your "primary limbs" (like apple, but less rigid). They do not need perfect symmetry - cherries accept more irregularity.

2. Cut back other central shoots. Do you have two strong top shoots growing upward? Keep one, cut the other back to 2-3 buds. This prevents double-top trees.

3. Remove weak wood again. Thin, awkward wood, inward-growing branches, damaged pieces - gone.

4. Side shoots on primary limbs. Do you have side shoots on your primary limbs? Let them grow. Do not cut them back - more wood means more fruiting potential later.

May of year 4: let go

By year 4 you usually have a tree that is beginning to look decent. This is the moment to withdraw:

What you do:

• Still remove dead/weak wood
• Remove branches that touch or rub each other
• Let go otherwise - you have made your foundation

Important: do not cut back the side shoots you let grow in year 3. Those will now start fruiting.

Months that matter: May-June, not March

This cannot be emphasised enough. For all years:

• May-June: safe time. Tree is in full growth, wounds heal fast, bacterial canker is less opportunistic.
• March: NEVER for cherries. Too much risk.
• July-August: emergency pruning only (dead wood, severe wildness).

Differences from apple

Frequently asked questions

What if my young cherry already bears fruit in year 2?

It happens sometimes. Do not worry. Let it carry two-three fruits if it wants, but remove most flowers. Energy into growth is more important than early fruit.

My young cherry grows at an angle - should I stake it?

Yes, that is wise. Insert a stake in year 1, tie the tree to it with soft rope. After 2-3 years the stake can come off - the tree will be strong enough.

How fast does a young cherry grow?

Faster than apple. Expect 50-80 cm extra per year in the early years if you care for it well. By year 5-6, your tree reaches 3-4 meters.

I see fungus on the trunk - what now?

Ensure better drainage around the planting hole. Fungus indicates stagnant moisture. If bad, you can carefully scrape fungus away. Do not cut into healthy wood.

Should I use wound dressing on cut wounds?

No. Let the tree heal itself. Wound dressing does not help and can actually introduce bacterial canker. Leave wounds open.

Step-by-step

Step 1: Planting to May year 2

Plant in March-April. Water and compost. No pruning.

Step 2: First pruning (May year 2)

Remove thin and damaged wood. Let strong, thick branches grow.

Step 3: Summer year 2

No further pruning. Water regularly. Let grow.

Step 4: Second pruning (May year 3)

Choose 3-4 primary limbs. Remove competing top shoots. Let side shoots grow.

Step 5: Third pruning (May year 4)

Remove dead wood and inward/crossing branches. Let go otherwise.

Step 6: Year 5 and beyond

Maintenance mode: each May-June remove dead wood, thin overcrowding. Let grow.

Small variety variations

Lapins, Sweetheart: Compact, lateral growers. Follow the above plan closely.

Sunburst, Attika: Somewhat sparser with side shoots. You can let more side shoots stay longer.

Burlat: Somewhat vigorous. Same plan, but let branches grow slightly longer before selecting.

Discover your own garden design

At [gardenworld.app](https://gardenworld.app) you can upload your front yard and see how a young cherry grows and forms through the years. Visualise its mature form before you pick up the secateurs.