How to prune a Regina cherry tree: from training to harvest
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Regina: the demanding sweet cherry
Regina (Prunus avium 'Regina') is one of the most prized sweet cherries in northern Europe. Strong, sweet fruit, good yields, and reasonably hardy. But pruning Regina is different from apple or pear. Cherries are susceptible to disease after pruning - bacterial canker and other pathogens easily penetrate. Regina therefore requires caution: prune when necessary, not for pleasure.
The art is maintaining an open, air-filled canopy without major structural cuts. Regina grows relatively compact naturally, so heavy formative pruning is unnecessary.
Why Regina is pruned differently from apple
Apple tolerates hard pruning - March seems simple. Cherries, however: one large wound and bacterial canker can topple your tree. Regina is not particularly susceptible, but why take the risk?
The rule: prune cherries in May-June, after bloom but before fruits enlarge. Wounds heal faster during the growing season. Avoid March pruning for cherries unless you have a dead branch to remove.
The second rule: prune minimally. Regina does not need as much training as apple. Let the tree develop naturally, but manage overcrowding occasionally.
Years 1-2: Minimal training
A young Regina planted in spring needs almost no pruning in year one. Let it grow. In year two (May, after bloom), you can check two things:
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Central leader. Does your tree have a clear top? Good, leave it. Does it grow more like a shrub (many thick branches from low down)? Also fine for Regina - it naturally spreads more than apple.
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Side shoots in the way. Is a side branch growing directly downward or crossing other limbs? Remove it. Otherwise: leave.
For Regina: no active formative pruning in years 1-2. Wait until years 3-4 before serious structural work.
Years 3-4: First real pruning cycle
In May of year three (after bloom), Regina gets its first structural pruning:
What you do:
- Remove dead or diseased wood (greyish-brown branches, no bark shine)
- Remove branches that cross each other
- Remove downward-hanging or rubbing branches
- Do not cut more - Regina prefers staying compact
Where you are cautious:
- Do not remove several thick branches in one year. Spread that over two seasons.
- Cut wounds larger than 5 cm diameter: minimise. If you need such a cut, do one per year, not several.
Regina at full maturity: maintenance (year 5+)
Once established (around year 5-6), Regina needs little. Each May to June:
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Dead wood. Check for branches that are greyish-brown, no bark sheen. Remove completely.
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Thinning. Regina's fruiting shoots can crowd. Do not rely on "free growth" - it prefers an open form. Remove branches that touch each other.
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Height management. Regina does not naturally grow very tall (3-4 meters typical). But if branches grow above your reach and you want to harvest yourself, cut leading shoots back to comfortable height.
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Side shoot shortening. Optional but useful: cut side shoots on primary limbs back to three or four buds if they become too long. This compacts the tree and redirects energy to fruiting.
Monilia susceptibility
Regina is not particularly monilia-prone (many American sweet cherries are more), but wet years can be problematic. Ensure air circulation: remove branches that touch each other, and ensure water drains well from the canopy. This happens naturally if you prune in May-June after bloom.
Post-harvest pruning in August-September
After harvest (July, August), some side shoots may have grown long and awkward. You can cautiously shorten these. But this is not heavy pruning - expect 10-15 minutes work per tree, no more. Trim only side shoots that really get in the way or are damaged.
Frequently asked questions
Can I prune my Regina in March?
Better not. If you have dead wood that must go, remove it (that can happen anytime). But planned formative pruning, keep for May-June. March is too risky for cherries regarding disease.
How old must Regina be before it bears fruit?
Usually years 3-4, sometimes year 2. Regina is not particularly slow. Do not expect much in year two, but by year four it should bear well.
My Regina grows very upright - must I make it broader?
Cherries grow more pyramidally than apples. Regina's natural form is more pointed than a wide tulip cup. That is fine. You need not labour to make it artificially wider. Accept its natural shape.
How long does a Regina tree live?
30-40 years average, sometimes 50+. Cherries can become old. If your tree is older (20+) and bears less fruit, light pruning (dead wood, crowding) is still the answer. Not aggressive work.
What if a large branch breaks and makes a large wound?
It happens (wind, poor structure). Saw it smooth - make no stumps. Let the tree heal without wound dressing. Regina heals itself well.
Step-by-step
Step 1: Determine the timing
Wait until May-June after bloom. This is the safe time for pruning at cherries. No March pruning.
Step 2: Remove dead wood
Find grey, barkless branches. Saw them completely away, back to where wood is healthy (brown/green).
Step 3: Thin crossing branches
Find branches that cross or rub each other. Remove the weaker of each pair.
Step 4: Open the canopy
Remove branches that hang downward or block light access. Goal: air and sun can flow through the crown.
Step 5: Check height
If branches grow much higher than your comfortable reach, cut them back to your height. This helps with harvesting.
Small variations in other cultivars
Regina is the most popular sweet cherry, but there are cousins:
Sweetheart, Lapins: Like Regina, compact. Slightly less disease-prone (Lapins). Same pruning strategy - May-June, minimal.
Burlat, Early Burlat: Early, robust. Even more compact than Regina. Hardly needs pruning - only dead wood and crowding.
Stella: More growth. Same caution as Regina. May-June pruning.
Pollination and pruning
Regina is self-sterile - you need a pollination partner (many sweet cherries pollinate each other). This is pruning-independent - you can have one tree, as long as it gets regular pruning. But two trees (planted together) gives better fruit.
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