Broad beans sowing in November: get ahead of the aphids
By the GardenWorld editorial team, updated on
Want to see this in your garden?
Full design in HD: €7.99
Why broad beans in November?
November is the perfect moment to sow broad beans (Vicia faba). This winter-hardy crop thrives in cold months and benefits from natural winter dormancy and chilling. While you shiver outdoors, your beans quietly establish strong roots underground, and by March they have first leaves emerging. In June you harvest your first fresh broad beans, a full month ahead of spring-sown varieties.
The second advantage is aphids. Broad beans sown in October-November flower in April-May, just before the major bean aphid invasion hits in June. By the time aphids arrive, your beans are already flowering or setting pods. This saves you weeks of vigilant spraying and pest management.
Which broad bean varieties are winter-hardy?
Not all broad bean varieties survive winter frost. You choose winter-hardy types: Aquadulce Claudia (classic, robust, roughly 90-120 cm tall), Witkiem Meteor (brown-seeded, slightly more compact, the classic Dutch variety for autumn sowing) and Red Epicure (red seed, finer flavour, winter-hardy). Most garden centres stock Aquadulce. This variety does not gain you much extra time over spring varieties, but it is far more reliable in severe frosts.
Summer varieties (without "winter" in the name) are sown in March-April after the last frosts. Do not sow summer varieties in November; you will lose them below -8 to -10 degrees Celsius in January or February.
Timing: when exactly to sow?
Sow in the second half of October through mid-November. In the Netherlands, October 15 to November 15 is ideal. In Belgium (depending on altitude) October 10 to November 10. October-sown beans start growing faster and root better, though frost risk is higher. November-sown beans face less frost but germinate slowly if soil temperature is already below 5 degrees Celsius.
Check your soil temperature: broad beans germinate from roughly 5 degrees Celsius, so there is no need to wait for warmer soil. A simple soil thermometer from a garden centre takes the guesswork out of it. Sow too late, though, and your seed sits in cold, wet soil all winter and rots.
Soil preparation and spacing
Broad beans love well-worked, well-draining soil. Dig one spade deep (25-30 cm), work heavy clay soil now with sand or compost. Winter waterlogging is lethal for broad beans. Sow on a raised bed if your garden gets wet feet in winter.
Plant spacing: 20-25 cm between beans, rows 40-50 cm apart. This seems wide, but broad beans grow sturdy. A 6-metre row is therefore two rows of 3 metres each, spaced 50 cm apart, with 20 cm between each bean. Tighter sowing produces weaker plants; closer spacing suffocates them. Not sure where this bed fits best in your garden? On gardenworld.app you can see it first in a preview of your own garden.
Step by step
Step 1: Prepare the soil
Dig your seed bed one spade deep (25-30 cm) and work well. Heavy clay? Mix now with sand or rotted compost (2-3 litres per square metre). Make a raised bed if your garden is wet in winter. Create level, loose seed rows. A moist seed bed works better than completely dry.
Step 2: Check sowing time
Check your soil temperature: sowing works from roughly 5 degrees Celsius. Sow second half of October through mid-November. Sow too late (December) and your seed rots in wet soil. Sow in dry weather, not after heavy rain.
Step 3: Make holes and sow
Make holes 5 cm deep with your finger, place one seed per hole. Push gently with your thumb. Lay a backup seed 5 cm alongside for safety (thin later). Cover firmly with soil. One bean per hole is the rule; extra seed per hole leads to competition and weak plants.
Step 4: Wait for germination
The bean germinates in 2-3 weeks if still mild (12-15 degrees Celsius). Sown in October? Early November you often see nothing; dormancy sets in. After frost and warmer weather in March they emerge. No worry; your seed is not dead, it is just sleeping.
Step 5: Thin and stake later
After emergence in March, when plants are 5-10 cm, remove the weaker from each group (backup seed). Keep one strong plant per hole. In May, when plants are 30-40 cm tall, set stakes (bamboo) or ropes to support Aquadulce (up to roughly 120 cm tall).
Free preview
Create your own garden design
Winter protection: necessary or not?
Winter-hardy broad beans (and Aquadulce is one) need almost no protection down to -8 to -10 degrees Celsius. If you live somewhere that regularly drops below -12 degrees (higher altitudes in the Ardennes, northeastern Netherlands), lay straw or reed over the rows on the coldest days as backup. This provides microclimate.
Snow? That is actually frost protection. Snow insulates. Do not remove snow. Only if snow piles deep and buries your beans do you gently brush it off the growing points.
Root growth and flowering in spring
After winter your broad beans start growing in March-April. Roots are already deep and new leaf growth shoots upward fast. This stage needs water if dry (no rain for 2+ weeks). Water at the base, not on leaves (fungal diseases). Feed lightly with a balanced fertiliser in April.
Flowering in April-May. Broad beans have beautiful white flowers with black markings. Insects visit them, but hand-pollination is not necessary; they are self-fertile. A good bee year yields more pods, but you get harvest even without.
Staking and support
Aquadulce broad beans grow to roughly 120 cm. Taller varieties need support. Place bamboo stakes 20 cm deep next to each plant, or use a rope system between two stakes. Broad beans grow stiff; they do not fall over easily, but wind can snap young shoots. Support also helps at harvest (easier picking at working height).
Pests: aphids, mould and chocolate spot
Aphids (Aphis fabae, the black bean aphid) are your main foe, but November sowing dodges the June peak. If aphids appear in May before flowering, spray gently with soapy water or hose them off. Chemical aphid spray is overkill for home beans.
Chocolate spot (Botrytis fabae, sometimes Botrytis cinerea) occurs in wet, cold gardens. Spacing and ventilation prevent this already.
Harvesting and storing
First pods are ready from early June. Pick them young: beans around 8-10 cm long are ideal, still tender. Older than this they become mealy and flavour declines. Pick every 3 days at minimum, otherwise flowering slows and the plant sets fewer new pods. For fresh eating, pop the beans from the pod and eat them raw, or stew them briefly in boiling water for 3 minutes. To freeze, blanch 3 minutes, cool in ice water and pack in bags. For long storage, leave the beans on the plant until the pods are papery-dry, usually in October, then shell them, dry them on a sieve and store them in airtight jars in a cool shed. Resow next autumn.
Frequently asked questions
Can I sow broad beans in December or January? Technically yes, but risk rises dramatically. Germination does not happen; seeds sit in wet, cold soil. At least one third is lost. Wait instead for spring varieties in March.
My broad beans turned yellow and stopped growing. What is that? Two causes: 1) Winter waterlogging (check drainage, raise bed next time), or 2) mouse damage (set traps or protect the row with mesh in autumn). Yellow leaves after spring growth is normal (plant maturation); yellow in January-February signals distress.
Do broad beans deserve the space? Other vegetables are more productive. Per square metre, broad beans are not the most productive vegetable. But for minimal labour (sow, stake, harvest 10 minutes weekly in June), taste and pleasure, beans beat many. One row is enough for most households.
How many beans per plant can I expect? Aquadulce with good weather yields on average 6-12 pods per plant. With heavy aphids or wet spring, fewer (3-6). One pod holds 4-6 beans. So 20-50 edible beans per plant, possibly more with excellent conditions.
See it in your own garden first
Want to see how broad beans fit in your kitchen garden? Upload a photo of your space on gardenworld.app, and view for free a first design with room for vegetable beds, beans and support. The sharp image with plant list for winter crops and summer successors costs 7.99, one-time, no subscription.
Create your own garden design
Upload a photo, pick a style, and get a photorealistic design with plant list in under a minute.
Full design in HD: €7.99


Related articles
What to plant in October for next year
October is the month for flower bulbs, perennials and bare-root hedging: what to plant now, exactly when, and how much space each one needs.
What to plant in November: the bare-root season
November is ideal for hedges, fruit trees and roses. Learn which varieties you plant bare-root now and how to use them best.
What to do in December in the garden
December is quieter than autumn, but your garden now needs frost protection. Learn what to do against freezing, how to help birds, and why you must not prune.