What to plant in October for next year

October: planting now for a strong start next spring

What should you plant in October for next year? Mainly flower bulbs, perennials and bare-root hedging: everything that can grow roots over winter while the soil is still warm. Garlic and broad beans also go into the ground now, for a harvest next summer. You are not planting for this season, but for the one after it.

In October the soil typically sits around 10 to 12 degrees, warm enough for roots to grow while the plant itself is already going dormant above ground. That combination works in your favour: less stress on the plant, less watering, and by March everything stands ready with a strong root system to burst into growth.

Flower bulbs: this month's main job

Tulips, daffodils (Narcissus), crocuses, hyacinths, snowdrops, grape hyacinths (Muscari) and ornamental onion (Allium) all go into the ground in October or November. They need 12 to 16 weeks of cold before they can emerge in spring, and they only get that cold if you plant them in time.

Rule of thumb for depth: plant a bulb roughly three times as deep as the bulb itself is tall. For tulips and daffodils that usually works out to 15 to 20 cm; crocuses and snowdrops stay shallower, around 8 to 10 cm. Space tulips and daffodils 10 to 12 cm apart, and plant smaller bulbs such as grape hyacinths closer together, around 7 to 8 cm, for a fuller display in April.

Bulbs hate wet feet. On heavy clay, mix some coarse sand into the bottom of the planting hole so water can drain away more easily. Plant large bulbs individually in their own hole, but plant small ones in loose groups of twenty to thirty, which looks far more natural than scattered single dots.

Not sure how a bulb combination will actually look in your own garden? On gardenworld.app you can see that first, in a preview of your own garden, before you plant a single bulb.

Perennials: still time to grow roots

October is also a good time to add or move perennials. Varieties such as aster, coreopsis, coneflower (Echinacea), rudbeckia, salvia, heuchera and stonecrop (Sedum) are not yet dormant and use the warm soil to spread their roots.

Dig the planting hole roughly twice as wide as the root ball, so the roots have room to spread out straight away. Water generously, especially during the first three to four weeks, even if it rains: the root ball itself dries out faster than the soil around it. On heavy soil, work some compost through the planting hole so it stays loose enough for young roots.

Hold off on peonies (Paeonia), delphiniums and lupins until spring: in their first winter these are sensitive to frost damage if the roots have not yet established properly.

Bare-root hedging: cheaper and stronger

October through December is the best window to plant a new hedge bare-root, meaning without a pot. Bare-root plants are cheaper than potted ones and often establish faster, since the roots do not first need to break free of a root ball.

Common hedging species in the Netherlands and Belgium include beech (Fagus sylvatica), hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), yew (Taxus baccata), holly (Ilex aquifolium), privet (Ligustrum) and hawthorn (Crataegus). Allow roughly three plants per running metre, so a spacing of about 30 to 35 cm. Dig a trench as deep as the roots are long, usually 30 to 40 cm, and work some compost through it for a smooth start. Leave 30 to 40 cm between the hedge and a fence or boundary, or the hedge will grow lopsided towards the light.

Garlic: plant it and almost forget it

Plant garlic now for a harvest next year. Break a bulb into individual cloves and plant each one separately, 5 cm deep and 10 to 15 cm apart, pointed end up. Choose loose, fertile soil so the cloves do not rot.

Garlic grows slowly through winter, puts on real growth in April and May, and is ready to lift by late June or July, once the foliage flops over and turns yellow. Of all the autumn jobs, this is the easiest: plant it, weed around it a few times, and harvest months later.

Broad beans: sowing for an early summer harvest

Hardy varieties such as 'Aquadulce Claudia' or 'Hangdown' go in now, from mid-October to early November, sown directly into open ground. Sow the beans 5 cm deep and 20 cm apart, in a double row so the plants can support each other later on.

The plants grow slowly until the real cold arrives, overwinter small and sturdy, and start growing again in March. They are hardy to roughly minus 8 to minus 10 degrees; in harsher frost or without much snow cover, protect them with a layer of straw. The harvest then follows as early as June, well ahead of a spring-sown crop of the same vegetable.

What not to plant right now

Delphiniums, lupins and peonies (Paeonia) are better planted in spring: their roots are not yet strong enough to survive a first winter undamaged. Annual summer flowers such as cosmos and zinnia no longer belong in the ground, their season is over. Ornamental grasses such as Miscanthus are also better planted in April, as young plants are vulnerable to rot in a wet winter. Mediterranean pot plants such as rosemary, lavender and a potted olive tree should stay sheltered until the risk of night frost has passed, so from May onward.

Common mistakes in October

A frequent mistake is planting all the bulbs randomly, one hole at a time. Dig all the holes to the right depth first, then place all the bulbs: it works faster and gives a neater result. A second mistake is pushing bulbs straight into heavy, unworked clay; without sand mixed in, they rot in a wet winter. A third mistake is planting a hedge flush against a boundary fence: leave 30 to 40 cm of space, or the hedge will grow lopsided towards the light. A fourth mistake is starting too late: wait until December for bulbs and they miss part of their cold period, so spring flowering is weaker.

Step by step

Step 1: Make a plan and dig the holes

Decide where the bulbs, perennials and hedge will go. Dig all the holes to the correct depth before you start planting anything.

Step 2: Improve the soil

Work compost into the soil for perennials and hedging, and sand into heavy clay for bulbs, so excess water can drain away.

Step 3: Plant bulbs and garlic

Place bulbs point-up at the right depth, and plant garlic cloves 5 cm deep. Cover loosely with soil.

Step 4: Plant perennials and the hedge

Plant perennials as deep as their root ball, and space hedge plants 30 to 40 cm apart. Water everything well right away.

Step 5: Sow broad beans and cover if needed

Sow broad beans 5 cm deep, 20 cm apart. Protect vulnerable new plantings with a layer of straw or leaf compost during hard frost.

Frequently asked questions

Can I still plant bulbs in November? Yes, right through to early December. The soil is often still workable then, and the bulbs still get plenty of cold before spring.

My bulbs already have green shoots, can I still plant them? Yes, usually you still can. The shoot has grown slowly and the bulb still has enough energy left. Plant it at the normal depth, and the shoot will simply keep growing towards the light.

How much water should I give after planting? Give one thorough watering right after planting. After that, extra water is only needed if it stays dry for two weeks, since October and November usually bring enough rain on their own.

Can I sow broad beans in spring instead? Yes, a February or March sowing also works, but an autumn sowing produces sturdier plants and a harvest that comes in several weeks earlier.

See it in your own garden first

Want to know how those bulbs and that hedge will actually look in your garden come April? Upload a photo on gardenworld.app and see a free preview of a new design with these plants. Want that preview sharp, with the full plant list included? That costs 7.99 euros, once, with no subscription.