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Gardeners plant young shrubs with bare roots in moist autumn soil in November
Seasonal Tips14 October 20267 min

What to plant in November: the bare-root season

By the GardenWorld editorial team, updated on

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November: the perfect season for root growth

November feels like the end of the growing season, but underground roots are just beginning to thrive. The soil is still warm from summer, the air is cooler and more moist, and leaves are falling. This is THE moment to plant hedges, fruit trees, roses and perennials with bare roots. Roots develop while the plant sleeps, so you start stronger next spring.

Bare-root plants are cheaper than container-grown specimens, better for large quantities (hedges), and feel more honest: you see the roots, you know what you are planting. For a 10-metre hedge you save nearly 100 euros already.

Hedges: the pinnacle of November

This is THE month for bare-root hedge plants. Beech (Fagus sylvatica), hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), privet (Ligustrum vulgare), laurel (Prunus laurocerasus): all cheaper and stronger in November than container-grown versions. Plant them in November and they have a whole winter to make roots.

Hedges of 10 to 30 cm you get now for around 0.80 to 2 euros per plant. For a 20-metre hedge with 2 plants per metre you sit at around 40 to 80 euros. In spring the same container-grown plants would cost 5 to 8 euros per plant.

Choose your plant per function: beech for a formal shape and autumn colour, hornbeam for a slightly wilder look, privet for fast growth, hawthorn for flowers and berries, yew (Taxus baccata) for almost any shape but slow growth. Privet is the quickest grower and sits around 1 euro per plant in November.

Plant them in rows at 35 to 50 cm spacing, make soil moist, do not plant deeper than they stood (find the old soil line on the stem), and water after planting. Save money: planting higher is worse than too deep.

Fruit trees: robust and affordable

Apple (Malus domestica), pear (Pyrus communis), plum (Prunus domestica), cherry (Prunus avium): in November they are all available as bare roots at nurseries. Choose per rootstock (M9 for small, M106 for larger), per variety (Elstar apple, Conference pear, Reine Claude plum), and per site (full sun or part shade).

Young fruit trees (3 to 5 years old) cost around 10 to 25 euros now. The same tree in a container in spring: around 40 euros. In the same frost period you can leave them outside without damage, provided you do not plant them in frozen soil.

Plant in November and they root for three full months before spring comes. Those roots are your biggest advantage: faster bloom, more fruiting. Best on a sunny spot (minimum 6 hours full sun). Pear feels better if you place two varieties beside each other for cross-pollination.

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball, set a stake in for support, check that the soil line is straight, fill with your own soil mixed with compost, and water well. Water the first two years in dry periods.

Roses: only climbing and rambler roses

Most roses (Rosa) in the shop come container-grown. Climbing roses and rambler roses you find now as bare root and that is good value. Rambler: flowers once but abundantly, full clusters, suited against a wall, such as Albertine or Dorothy Perkins. Climbing rose: repeat-flowering, more shape, such as Souvenir de la Malmaison or Pierre de Ronsard.

These are strong, well-rooted types, so ideal for November. Plant against a south-facing wall, pergola, or tied fencing. Set a stake or wire support first, plant the rose against it, then tie the stems in loosely.

Rambler needs much more tying in the first year, climbing rose less. Both: after winter keep moist, do not flood with winter rain.

Perennials: dividing and mass planting

November is the moment for perennials that you can divide. Hosta (Hosta spp.), peony (Paeonia lactiflora), hardy geranium (Geranium spp.), astilbe (Astilbe spp.): in a frost-free period you plant them bare-root much cheaper than potted specimens from the shop. Ground covers in bulk: Sedum, Ajuga, Geranium sanguineum.

For a border of 10 square metres: in the shop you still pay per pot, in November it is cheaper and stronger as bare root. A thick Sedum normally costs around 2.50 euros, in November around 1.50 euros as bare root. For 50 plants that already saves 50 euros and they grow just as well.

Plant in moist soil, not waterlogged. Perennials survive frost periods provided they do not stay waterlogged. Mulch against frost heave.

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What NOT to plant in November

Container plants (olive, citrus, fuchsia): you move those indoors after the first frost. Do not plant outdoors in November if you want to keep them.

Bulbs (tulips, daffodils, crocuses): plant those until mid-December. November is still full bulb season but not the best time.

Summer annuals and bedding plants: those are finished. What you plant now in November must survive frost.

Frost protection: timing is everything

Many bare-root plants can get frost damage in January and February. Plant in November so they root and stabilise before the big cold. Flexible timing: not everything must go in on 1 November, but you must get it done by end November.

With frost below 10 degrees without snow cover young foliage can get damage. Trees, hedges, roses can take that, perennials less. Cover perennials with straw or leaves until soil is frozen.

Step by step

Step 1: Soil preparation

Make planting hole twice as wide and as deep as the root ball. Set trees in a stake. Fill hole with your own soil and compost (1 to 1).

Step 2: Bare root check

Inspect roots: healthy is brown or whitish. Dried tips cut off. Damaged roots remove.

Step 3: Plant at correct depth

Do not plant deeper than the old soil line. For hedges: 2-3 cm deep in loose soil. For trees: soil line straight, not angled at bottom.

Step 4: Water

Immediately after planting water well, also in November. This fills air pockets and helps roots touch soil.

Step 5: Mulch and frost cover

Lay compost or straw round tree. For perennials cover with 5 cm leaves against frost heave.

Step 6: Winter wait

Check moisture every two weeks, water if soil feels dry. Do not flood. Next spring the shock is over.

Frequently asked questions

Why are bare roots cheaper? No potting compost, no pot, less transport. Especially for large quantities (20-metre hedge) that saves tonnes of haulage and quite a bit of money.

Can I plant bare roots also in December? Yes, until soil is frozen. November is better because you have more time and frost risks grow in January.

My tree got frost damage. What now? Wait until April. Dead twigs become clear once new growth starts. Cut damaged wood only then. Usually trees recover.

Can you order bare roots online? Yes, many nurseries ship November to December. Watch shipping dates: too long in transit and roots dry out. Well packaged and plant immediately on arrival.

What you plant now is in bloom next summer

November feels quiet, but you lay foundations now for next spring. That beech you plant now is 40 cm taller next autumn. That apple tree blooms next May. Those roses against the wall grow next summer to twice the size.

The secret of November: soil life works through, roots feel better on frost soil with cooling than in summer heat. Plant now and your garden grows without your fuss.

Want to see how your November planting looks in your garden? Upload a photo of your site to gardenworld.app and see a free example of how those hedges and trees will look next year. The sharp design with measurements and plant list costs 7.99 euros, one-time, no subscription.

See it in your own garden first

November planting feels good because you see results immediately. Upload your garden photo to gardenworld.app, and see for free how your November trees and hedges will look next summer. The sharp design with plant list and exact measurements costs 7.99 euros, one-time, no subscription. Next autumn you will be glad you planted now.

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