How to prune a plum tree as an espalier: complete training guide

What is an espalier?

An espalier (from French 'espalier') is a fruit tree trained flat against a wall or fence, with branches in stiff geometric patterns. In the classic pattern, horizontal arms grow from a central vertical axis - like a candelabra.

Why? It is not just beautiful. An espalier against a south-facing wall reflects heat, ripening fruit faster. It takes little ground space, ideal for small gardens. And pruning becomes an art: you control exactly which branches grow, so you can achieve densely packed fruit production.

Plums are perfect espalier trees. They are flexible, tolerate pruning well and flower abundantly. With proper training you get far more out of the same space.

Step 1: Start with a young tree

Begin with a 1-year-old plum tree (a 'maiden'). This is a single stem, 150-180 cm tall, usually with no side shoots. Perfect - you shape it yourself.

Plant it against the wall, 20-25 cm away. Water well. For the next 3 years, training is as important as growth.

Plant in March/April, before the growing season.

Step 2: Year one - build vertical axis (March)

In March cut the stem back to about 45 cm height. This sounds aggressive, but it is right. The wound activates side buds, creating new shoots.

Let the top grow (the vertical axis). Pinch off side shoots (laterals) as they appear, but not completely - leave them 2-3 leaves before pinching again.

By summer you have a straight axis of roughly 90-100 cm with short side shoots.

By autumn: cut the side shoots back to about 5 cm above the stem. These are 'spurs' that flower next year.

Step 3: Year two - add first horizontal arms (March-April)

In March select two strong side buds at equal height, roughly 30-40 cm above the ground. These become your first horizontal arms.

Gently tie them down with plant ties against the wall. Not too tight - you do not want to break them. They now grow horizontally.

The central axis? Let it grow another 45 cm. End of year cut it back again. Pinch side shoots as before.

By bending vertical shoots downward, you slow growth and force flowering rather than leaf formation. That is why espaliers look so densely packed with fruit.

Step 4: Year three - add more levels

Repeat. Select two new buds higher on the stem (roughly 60-70 cm), bend them horizontal.

The previous arms? Now 1 year old. Prune them carefully. Pinch off side shoots, back to spurs of about 5-10 cm.

By end of year three you have an 'H'-shape: central axis with two tiers of horizontal arms.

Many espaliers have 4-5 levels - but for home gardens 3 levels are usually enough.

Step 5: Spur pruning - annual maintenance

This is the key. Every winter (November-December) cut all side shoots (spurs) back to 5-10 cm. They look funny - little stumps - but each stump is a knob full of flowers.

In May, as the spurs grow and flowers form, you can thin gently. If you have too many tiny plums, remove a few. It hurts, but one strong plum per 10 cm of spur gives better fruit than ten weak ones.

Step 6: Keep vertical arms in check

The vertical axis grows explosively. Every year you cut it back - the goal is for it to grow just 30-45 cm longer than the previous year.

When your espalier is full (three levels, each 200-250 cm wide), you can cut the vertical axis short - or cut it away entirely and start a small new one.

Some gardeners let the axis grow past 300+ cm and then cut the top. Does not matter as long as it stays controlled.

Step 7: Train against the wall

Plum branches are woody but bendable. Use soft plant ties (no hard wire). Tie every 30-40 cm to the wall. Ensure ties do not cut into the bark - check twice a year.

When shoots harden in August, you can bend them more carefully. Do not try to drastically bend half-hard wood - it breaks.

Step-by-step espalier training

Step 1: Choose and plant young tree

Start with 1-year-old tree, plant against wall 20-25 cm away.

Step 2: Year 1 - create vertical axis

Cut back to 45 cm, let central shoot grow, pinch laterals back to 2-3 leaves.

Step 3: Year 1 - form spurs

Pinch side shoots back to 5 cm above stem in October.

Step 4: Year 2 - add first horizontal arms

Select two strong laterals, tie them down horizontally.

Step 5: Years 2-3 - add more levels

Each year add two new horizontal arms, prune previous year's.

Step 6: Annual spur pruning

October/November: cut all spurs back to 5-10 cm, these carry flowers.

Step 7: Manage vertical axis

Cut back every year so it does not grow wild, max 30-45 cm growth per year.

Frequently asked questions

How long before an espalier fruits?

Years one and two are training years. Year three you see first flowers. Real harvest? Years four and five. Patience is needed.

Can all plum varieties be espaliers?

Almost. Avoid very vigorous growers like 'Stanley' or 'Presenta' - those are hard to control. Choose compact-growing types: 'Opal', 'Reine Claude', 'Mirabelle', 'Juliet' (self-fertile).

How many plums from an espalier?

A full-grown espalier with 4 levels gives 15-30 kg per year in good years. A normal tree gives 20-30 kg. So volume is lower, but yield per m2 of wall is higher.

Can I train a mature tree into an espalier?

Difficult. Old trees are stiff. Starting with a young tree is far better. If you have an old tree, you can retrain it in phases (2-3 years).

Is an espalier more work?

Yes. You need three to four pruning sessions per year (March, May-June, August, November). Normal tree? Two. But it is meditative work, and the result is beautiful.

Which wall is best for plum espalier?

South-facing (for warmth and ripening). East-facing works too. West-facing risks dampness issues (wet mornings). North? Not ideal - much shade, slower ripening.

Can I grow espaliers in pots?

Yes, in large pots (60+ litres). Less harvest than in ground. Watering needed more regularly in summer.

Fully functional front garden

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