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Tree with dead and living branches, before deadwooding
Planting24 May 20268 min

Deadwooding: how to remove dead branches from your tree

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What is deadwooding?

Deadwooding is the removal of dead, dying, or diseased branches from your tree. It is an essential part of tree care: dead branches not only look bad, they are also a safety hazard. A dead branch can break and fall - onto your house, garage, shed, or worse, on someone.

Dead branches develop from:

  • Natural ageing of old branches
  • Disease or fungal infections
  • Damage from frost, storm, or insects
  • Overshadowing (branches no longer receive light)
  • Nutrient deficiency (the tree no longer supports the branch)

If you delay deadwooding, your tree becomes more dangerous. Broken dead branches fall unpredictably. This is why you check regularly.

Recognising dead branches

How do you spot a dead branch?

Dead branches are usually obvious, but not always:

  • No leaves or shoots: A branch without leaves in spring/summer is dead
  • Grey or weathered bark: Much lighter in colour than living wood
  • Brittle and snappy: Break easily in your hand
  • No "sap under the bark": Scratch gently with your fingernail - living wood is green/white underneath, dead is brown/grey
  • No bud formation: No new shoots or buds

Caution: Sometimes branches are not entirely dead but "dying slowly" (diseased). They have a few leaves, but do not grow normally. Usually remove these too.

Why deadwooding matters

Safety is priority:

  • Dead branches can break under their own weight or in wind
  • They fall unpredictably - you do not know where they land
  • They damage your house, shed, cars, or worse: you

Tree health:

  • Energy going to dead branches is "wasted"
  • Dead branches can attract fungal infections that spread to live wood
  • The tree looks healthier and neater

Appearance:

  • Your tree looks neglected without deadwooding
  • A clean silhouette makes a tree more attractive

Step-by-step

Step 1: Identify all dead branches

Walk around your tree. Look at all branches, especially:

  • The underside of the crown (dead branches hang down)
  • Thick, older branches (more prone to age)
  • Branches hanging downward (sometimes dead)
  • Branches crowded together (inner branches get less light)

Mark them mentally or with red spray paint (washes off).

Step 2: Choose your tools

For dead branches use:

  • Hand saw: For branches thinner than your thumb (under 3 cm)
  • Folding saw: For branches 3-8 cm thick
  • Tree saw: For larger branches (over 8 cm)
  • Pole saw: For branches higher than your reach

Ensure your saw is sharp. A dull saw is dangerous and slow. Sharp saws cut cleanly and work safely.

Step 3: Cut in the right place

This matters. Do NOT cut flush against the trunk (too much damage). Do not cut far outside the "collar" (the swelling where the branch meets the trunk).

The three-cut technique:

  1. First cut (underside): Saw from below upward, about 30 cm out from the crown. Do not cut all the way through, stop after 1/3 of the depth.
  2. Second cut (topside): Saw from above downward, slightly further out. Saw through until the branch snaps clean. The branch now breaks cleanly, bark does not tear down the trunk.
  3. Third cut (the "collar"): Now a short stub remains. Saw it flush against the collar. Cut straight, just outside the collar, so natural healing tissue can grow over.

Step 4: Let the cuts heal

Modern advice: do NOT seal cuts. The tree heals better on its own:

  • No sealant or wound dressing
  • No fungicides
  • Let the wood "callus" and form scar tissue

In 1-2 seasons tissue grows over the wound. That is normal.

Step 5: Dispose of material properly

Dead branches belong NOT in compost:

  • They can carry fungal spores
  • They break down slowly in compost
  • Burn them or put them in green waste

Frequently asked questions

Can I deadwood in any season?

Best is February-March (dormancy, easy to see). You may do it year-round, but:

  • Spring/summer: Wounds heal faster, but diseases spread easier
  • Autumn: Fine, but cuts heal slowly
  • Winter: Ideal visibility, but healing is slow

Rule: dead branches can come out anytime - they are no longer useful anyway.

How deep into the crown should I prune?

Not too deep. Let the tree "breathe":

  • Do not remove healthy branches
  • Leave at least 30% of the crown intact
  • Focus on dead/diseased/overlapping branches

Deadwooding is not crown shaping. You make small gaps, not an empty head.

My tree has whole dead branches high in the crown. Must they all come out?

With dead branches high up: yes, they must go. This can be major work - proceed carefully with a step-ladder or rental equipment.

With many dead branches, it is better to hire an arborist. They have lifts and can do large work safely.

What if an entire branch is "half-dying" (some leaves)?

Wait one season. Mark it with red spray paint. Next spring look again. If the branch still does not grow well, remove it.

Can I use dead branches for charcoal or firewood?

Yes. Dead wood burns well. Let it dry in the sun for 1-2 seasons first (not in compost).

Safety

  • Wear safety goggles (sawdust flies)
  • Wear gloves
  • Ensure stable footing
  • Do not work on wet ground (slipping)
  • Get help for high work or thick branches

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