First lawn mowing in March: timing and height

Why is the first mowing so important?

After a long winter when your lawn hasn't been touched, grass finally starts growing again in March. But many gardeners make the same mistake: they set the mower too low and happily scalp their lawn short. That's exactly wrong. Your first mowing determines much about how healthy and dense your sward becomes for the entire season. Mowing too short in early spring actually weakens grass when it should be recovering from frost and winter wet.

The first cut is not a routine mowing. It's a careful, strategic step. Your lawn needs rest after winter, but it also needs to grow vigorously before summer arrives. Both timing and height of your first mowing affect lawn health significantly.

When to mow: the ideal timing

There are two ways to judge if your lawn is ready:

Wait until growth begins. Only when you see grass really sprouting, usually mid-March to end of March, do you start the mower. Not before. In many years that's end of March or even early April. Grass doesn't grow uniformly. In warm, dry winters it may grow in February. In harsh winters with many frost days, grass simply waits.

Watch moisture levels. Two days after rain, your lawn usually still feels spongy. Wait for that to improve. Your mower performs better and grass suffers less damage if it's sufficiently dry. Wet grassmats get compressed by the blade, actually encouraging diseases.

Calendar rule: March is ideal when grass is actively growing. April is late. February mowing is far too early unless you live in an exceptionally warm year.

The right height: not too short, not too long

This is where most gardeners go wrong. They see their March grass looking a bit shaggy and set the mower to three centimetres instead of five.

Rule of thumb: Five centimetres for the first cut.

Why not shorter? Because short grass in March actually suppresses root growth. A shorter blade has less leaf area to catch sun, so it grows weakly. Weak grass invites moss, and moss is the last thing you want in March.

Besides, grass works like this. If you cut to two centimetres, new shoots (tillers) get suppressed. They don't grow as fast, and you get a thinner lawn. Mowing at five centimetres keeps growth normal and energizes your grass.

After May, when it's warmer and drier, you gradually go shorter. June and July can be four centimetres. August through October back to four-five centimetres. December through February you leave it completely alone.

Preparation for the first mowing

Before you start the mower, do three things:

1. Check the blade. A dull blade doesn't cut cleanly but tears grass, causing brown tips. Your lawn will look poor for weeks. A clean blade makes all the difference. Most mowers have replaceable blades costing next to nothing.

2. Clear large branches and stones. Leaves are fine to mow, large branches are not. They damage the mower and can get tangled under the grass where you can't reach them.

3. Check the throttle and speed settings. Many gardeners set their mower to full speed and high cutting height together. For March we recommend: normal speed, five centimetres height.

Tip: Maintain your mower during the season

Clean grass means a clean blade underneath. After every mowing (really every single time) wipe the underside of your mower with dry leaves. Grass debris rots there, causing rust and shortening blade life. Wet, dried grass also gets heavy, so your mower works less efficiently.

What to do with grass clippings?

After the first mowing you'll have lots of clippings. Leave them. This mulches your lawn, feeds it and retains moisture. No need to rake them up. Unless they pile in thick clumps - then they rot and create dead patches.

Step-by-step

Step 1: Wait until grass grows

Walk your garden and look at your grass. Is it growing? Do you see new growth points? Only then start mowing. This is usually end of March or early April.

Step 2: Check the blade

Clean and sharpen or replace. A dull blade causes brown tips you'll see for weeks.

Step 3: Clear large obstacles

Leaves, small wood pieces - no problem. Large branches, stones, rubbish: remove them.

Step 4: Set your mower to five centimetres

Not shorter. In March your grass still needs gentleness. Five centimetres is optimal.

Step 5: Mow in dry conditions

Not immediately after rain. Wait at least two days and ensure the ground isn't spongy.

Step 6: Leave the clippings

It mulches your lawn, feeds the grass, holds moisture.

Frequently asked questions

Can I mow in February?

In nine out of ten years, no. Your grass isn't growing yet. February mowing actually weakens grass. Only exception: if it's summery warm in February and you see real growth. But wait until March.

My lawn still looks mossy after mowing. Is this normal?

Yes. After winter, moss is inevitable. This disappears with scarifying in April or May. Mowing helps but doesn't remove moss. Scarifying does.

Should I feed right after mowing?

Not immediately. Give your grass two weeks rest after the first cut. Early April, when grass is growing well, you can apply spring fertilizer. That stimulates shoot growth perfectly now.

How short can I eventually cut in summer?

June and July you can mow to four centimetres. August back to four-five centimetres. In hot, dry summers better keep it slightly higher (five to six centimetres) to resist drought.

What if my mower won't start?

Check fuel (for petrol models) and oil. Ensure the spark plug is clean. After winter, dirt or old fuel causes problems. Fresh fuel and new oil usually fix everything.

Frequently asked questions

Does it matter if I cut slightly shorter?

Not terrible, but not ideal. Shorter than four centimetres in March promotes moss and weakens roots. Four to five centimetres is really the sweet spot.

How do I know if my blade is truly dull?

Dry some grass, grab it gently and pull upward. A sharp blade cuts cleanly, you feel no resistance. A dull blade pulls grass out instead of cutting. That's very noticeable.

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