Dividing chives: rejuvenating every three years
By the GardenWorld editorial team, updated on
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Why divide chives every three years?
Chives are a clever herb. You plant them once and years later you are still harvesting. Yet after two to four years they become increasingly less productive. The plant grows dense, forms hard clumps underground, and the leaves become thinner and weaker. This is the moment to divide. Divided chives immediately give you two to four strong, young plants that will sustain you again for years.
Why does a chives plant wear itself out? The underground bulblets stack up and crowd each other. Nutrients get spread too thin across too many small bulbs. Dividing is like giving the plant a fresh start: you reduce the density, remove old root remnants, and each piece gets more space and nutrition. A divided chives plant grows wider, the leaves get thicker, and you harvest twice as much per plant.
When to divide chives: the right moment
Divide chives in spring (March to April) or autumn (September to October). Early spring (March) is ideal: the plant just begins active growth, and divided plantlets have the whole growing season to establish. Autumn division (September-October) also works, especially in Flanders and the Netherlands, but gives less time before winter.
If in doubt: divide in March. Do not wait until the plant is fully frozen or fully finished flowering. Divide around the time you see the first green shoots emerging.
Onion fly? You know your chives are attacked by onion fly if you see sudden wilting in May-June: leaves yellow, whole plants collapse. In that case wait with division until September when the pest has passed. Dividing during fly season makes everything worse.
How to divide chives: step by step
Preparation
You need: a spade or sturdy knife, a bucket of water, potting soil (or garden soil), small pots (10-12 cm), and a sharp knife for fine work. Rinse your tools clean with water (no pesticides needed).
Water your chives plant well the day before dividing so the soil is moist. This makes digging easier and lessens stress.
Step 1: Lift the plant from the ground
Dig around the chives plant, roughly 15 cm from the stem. Make sure you do not cut through the bulb. Lift gently with root ball intact. If your chives are in a pot, slide it out with support underneath.
Shake gently to loosen some soil. You do not need to clean completely, but loosen the soil around the root ball.
Step 2: See the bulblets
You now see the underground part: a compact mass of bulblets. These bulblets are really tiny onion bulbs (juvenile bulbs). Around these bulblets is a growing root system. Under much soil you may also see thick root remnants from last year.
Rinse gently with water so you see the bulblets better. Not high pressure, but soft mist so soil washes away. Now you see where to cut.
Step 3: Divide into pieces
Here you have two choices: roughly in halves, or finer. For a plant that is quite dense, cut it into two or three pieces with the sharp knife. Make sure each piece has at least ten to fifteen bulblets and feels like a sturdy clump. Pieces with only three bulblets will not survive: they are too weak.
Cut carefully, do not force. If using a spade: work gently from top to bottom.
Step 4: Remove old root remnants
Before planting the pieces, cut away old, dark brown root remnants. These are often hollow or mouldy leftovers from last season. They add nothing and offer places for diseases. Fresh white root hairs you leave: they still grow.
Step 5: Prepare planting hole
Dig a planting hole 10-15 cm deep, a bit wider than the clump. Mix garden soil with some compost (about 30%) if your soil is poor. Chives like rich, moist, well-draining soil. Fill the hole partly, set the piece in, fill further.
Press well, no air pockets. Water generously after planting.
Step 6: Care after division
For the first two weeks put away the harvest knife. Let the plant grow. Water regularly so the soil stays moist but not waterlogged. A bit of shade the first week helps prevent drying out.
After two weeks you see new growth: first new shoots appear. Now you may gently take some tips, but not much. Full harvest waits until next month.
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Forcing chives in a pot for winter
This is a nice trick: separated chives bulblets on potting soil in a pot in January-February force fresh, beautiful leaves within three to four weeks. This works because the bulbs "think" they are waking from winter sleep and grow like crazy.
Take some separated chives bulblets (not whole pieces, but a few loose bulblets). Plant them close together in a pot of potting soil, one centimetre deep. Place the pot in a warm spot (indoors, 15-18 degrees is enough, but 20 is faster). Water very carefully.
After two weeks you see the first green. After four weeks you have full, dense, fresh green leaves you can harvest. This is really reliable and makes you happy regularly in February when everything is grey.
Chives flowers are edible
When your chives bloom in May, resist the urge to pick those leaves. Those flowers are beautiful (purple, bell-shaped, densely packed in balls) and they are delicious to eat. They taste mildly onion-like, nice sweet, and are a decoration on a salad.
Harvest your flowers before they fully open: those are the most beautiful. Use them fresh. They keep a day or two in the fridge in a damp cloth. Do leave a few flowers in place: bees love them, and they bring extra life to the garden.
Want to harvest seed from chives? Let a few flowers fully bloom and dry. They form seed pods. Pick them when brown, put them in an envelope and let them dry. The seed shakes out easily. Store cool and dry. Chives seed stays fresh for two years, then viability drops.
Step-by-step
Step 1: Plant preparation
Water the plant well the day before. Prepare spade, knife and soil.
Step 2: Dig out
Dig gently around the plant and lift it with root ball. Shake soil loose.
Step 3: Display and divide
Rinse with water so you see where to cut. Cut into two to three strong pieces (min. ten bulbs per piece).
Step 4: Old roots away
Remove dark brown, hollow root remnants. Leave white root hairs.
Step 5: Planting holes
Dig holes 10-15 cm deep, fill with soil-compost. Plant pieces, press well, water.
Step 6: Rest period
No harvest first two weeks. Water regularly. After two weeks gently take tips.
Step 7: Forcing (optional)
For winter: bulbs close in pot of potting soil, 15-18 degrees warm, water gently. After four weeks harvest.
Frequently asked questions
My chives feel limp and hanging: did I overwater?
Yes, probably. Chives like moist, not wet. If feet are waterlogged root rot forms. Place the pot on higher ground so excess water drains. If you planted in ground that is soggy: divide in spring and plant in a drier spot.
Can I pull a single chives bulb from a clump and plant it separately?
Yes, but it probably will not survive. One loose bulb is too weak. The minimum group is three to four bulbs together. If you cannot pull them loose: cut the piece with a few bulbs off with a sharp knife.
Chives in pot on the balcony: overwintering?
Chives are cold-hardy. The pot can stay outside. Note: soil in a pot freezes faster than ground soil. At frost below minus 10 degrees: wrap with burlap or leaves around. In February you can bring the pot indoors for forcing.
How much chives do I need for a household?
One sturdy plant or two small plants are enough for daily cutting (5-10 grams per day). For a more generous supply, grow three plants. Each year in May and June they deliver a couple of harvests per week.
What not to do
Never tear loose single bulbs unless you take a dozen at once: one bulb is dead wood. Never spray with chemicals just before or after division. Do not use dirty tools: this brings mould into cut wounds. Do not plant in waterlogged soil without improving drainage first.
Final remarks
Dividing chives is easier than you think. Once every three years twenty minutes of work, and you have two to four strong plants instead of one. After division your harvest grows twice as well. Plant your pieces carefully, no deep holes, and water well: you will see them grow.
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