Best Chainsaw 2026: The Complete Buying Guide

A chainsaw does in a few minutes what a hand saw needs an hour for: clearing a fallen tree after a storm, removing a diseased branch from an old oak, or cutting a winter's worth of firewood. It is also the most dangerous tool most garden owners will ever pick up, so getting the right one truly matters, not just for the result but above all for your safety. This guide covers what to look for when buying a chainsaw, walks through the best types in 2026, and answers the most common questions.

Chainsaws vary enormously in power source, weight and strength. A light cordless chainsaw for the occasional branch in a city garden has little in common with a heavy petrol saw used by an arborist to fell a mature oak. Which type suits you depends on how often you cut, how thick the wood is, and whether you have easy access to a power outlet or a charged battery.

What to look for

Power source: corded electric, cordless battery or petrol. A corded electric chainsaw is light, quiet, cheap to buy and always starts instantly, but you are tied to an extension cable and therefore to the area near an outlet. A cordless battery chainsaw gives you more freedom of movement and is quieter than petrol, but battery life (usually 15 to 30 minutes of active cutting per charge) and power are lower. A petrol chainsaw delivers the most power and works anywhere, even far from home or mains power, but it is heavier, louder, more polluting and needs more maintenance (fuel mixing, air filter, spark plug). For occasional pruning in an average garden, battery is usually the best balance; for felling trees or cutting large amounts of firewood, petrol remains unbeaten.

Bar length. For branches and thinner trunks in an average garden, a bar of 30 to 35 centimeters is enough. If you also need to cut through thicker trunks or fell trees, go for 40 to 50 centimeters. Note that a longer bar also demands a stronger motor, otherwise the chain bogs down in thick wood. A bar that is too long on a motor that is too weak is both inefficient and unsafe.

Power: watts, battery voltage or cc. Electric saws typically run between 1800 and 2400 watts, battery saws between 36 and 82 volts (higher generally means more power and cutting time), and petrol saws between 30 and 60 cc for the average consumer. More power cuts through thick wood faster, but a heavier motor also means a heavier, more vibration-prone tool, which becomes tiring over longer sessions.

Chain and safety. A low-kickback (safety) chain is less aggressive but significantly reduces the chance of kickback, the most dangerous moment when using a chainsaw. A full-chisel chain cuts faster but demands more experience. Also check for a chain brake (a front hand guard that automatically stops the chain on kickback) and a reduced-kickback bar tip; both come standard on well-built models.

Lubrication. A good chainsaw has an automatic bar-and-chain oiler that continuously lubricates the chain while cutting. Check the size of the oil reservoir and whether the level is easy to read; cutting dry wears out both chain and bar extremely fast.

Weight and ergonomics. Compact battery saws often weigh 2.5 to 3.5 kilograms, while petrol saws for home use weigh 4.5 to 6 kilograms. You feel that difference immediately once you work above shoulder height for more than a few minutes. Look for anti-vibration handles and a good balance between the front and rear grip.

Price. An entry-level corded model starts around 60 to 90 euros. A decent cordless chainsaw (excluding or including battery and charger) usually costs 150 to 300 euros. Petrol saws for home use start around 200 euros, and professional models with a bigger bar start from 400 euros.

Our top picks

For most garden owners, a cordless chainsaw with a brushless motor is the handiest first purchase. No fuel mixing, no exhaust fumes, and much quieter than petrol, while the brushless motor still delivers enough power for pruning branches and felling smaller trees.

For felling large trees or cutting a winter's supply of firewood, go for a petrol chainsaw with a 40 to 45 centimeter bar. It delivers the most cutting power, has no battery limitations, and remains the standard choice among arborists for heavy, sustained work.

If you have a small garden with the occasional branch to trim, a corded electric chainsaw is the most affordable option. Light, cheap and always ready to go, as long as you stay within reach of an outlet.

For high branches without a ladder, a pole chainsaw with an extendable shaft is essential. The telescopic pole brings the cutting head up to three or four meters high, which is far safer than balancing on a stepladder with a hand saw or regular chainsaw.

Beginners and anyone who prefers to play it safe should choose a chainsaw with a chain brake and low-kickback safety chain. The combination of automatic kickback protection and a less aggressive chain reduces the risk of accidents significantly, without giving up much cutting capacity.

Anyone who already owns a cordless tool platform from the same brand (for a drill or lawn mower, say) does well to buy a cordless chainsaw within that shared battery system. You save on an extra battery and charger, and the saw is usually just as compact as a standalone model.

Chainsaw by garden type and job

In a small city garden with the occasional branch to trim, a corded electric saw or a compact one-handed mini chainsaw is more than enough. For a mid-sized garden with a hedge, a few fruit trees and some firewood each year, a cordless chainsaw on a 36 to 40 volt platform is usually the best balance of power, weight and convenience.

If you have a large plot, an orchard, or regularly need to fell trees, a petrol saw with a bar from 40 centimeters pays for itself quickly in time and cutting power. Not sure yet which trees or shrubs should eventually go or stay? [See what your garden could look like with a new layout on gardenworld.app](https://gardenworld.app/en) first, so you make an informed choice before picking up the saw.

Maintenance and common mistakes

Check the chain tension before every use: too loose and the chain can jump off the bar, too tight and both chain and bar wear out faster. Top up the oil reservoir at every refuel or recharge, and clean sawdust away from the sprocket and air intake after use. On petrol saws, a clean air filter is crucial for engine longevity, and it is best to use alkylate fuel or a fuel stabilizer so the engine does not gum up during winter storage.

The most common mistake is cutting with a dull chain and then pushing harder. That makes the saw more dangerous, not less: a dull chain significantly increases the chance of kickback, while a sharp chain pulls itself smoothly through the wood. A second common mistake is working without proper protective gear: cut-resistant trousers or chaps, safety glasses, hearing protection and sturdy gloves are not optional extras but necessities. Also avoid cutting with the upper quarter of the bar tip, since that is exactly the zone where kickback occurs.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a cordless chainsaw and a petrol chainsaw? A cordless chainsaw is lighter, quieter and easier to maintain, but has a limited runtime per charge and usually somewhat less cutting power. A petrol chainsaw delivers continuous power with no charging downtime and is the better choice for heavy or prolonged work, but requires more maintenance and is louder.

What bar length do I need for cutting firewood? For most logs and thick branches, a bar of 35 to 40 centimeters is enough. If you regularly cut through trunks thicker than 30 centimeters, choose a 40 to 45 centimeter bar so you can get through the wood in one pass.

Is a chain brake mandatory on a chainsaw? It is not legally required everywhere, but virtually every serious chainsaw on the market comes with one as standard today. Never choose a model without a chain brake: it is the single most important safety feature against kickback injuries.

How often should I sharpen my chainsaw's chain? With regular use (weekly), it is best to sharpen the chain every few cutting sessions, or as soon as you notice the saw no longer pulls itself through the wood and you have to push. Sawdust that looks fine and powdery instead of coarse chips is also a clear sign the chain is dull.

Conclusion

A good chainsaw is not an impulse buy but a tool where the type, safety features and maintenance matter at least as much as the price. Choose based on what is actually growing in your garden and how often you cut, not on the cheapest deal, and your saw will last for years. Want to see straight away how your garden will look fuller, more open or better kept after pruning or felling? [Design your garden for free on gardenworld.app](https://gardenworld.app/en) and get an instant picture of the result.