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Wooden compost bin filled with garden waste and pruning material including branches and leaves
Soil & Ground14 October 20268 min

Pruning waste disposal: wood pile, chipping or removal

By the GardenWorld editorial team, updated on

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What do you do with all those branches and clippings?

Anyone who prunes regularly faces the same problem: where do you put all those branches and twigs? A few thin twigs fit in the green waste bin, but what if you have pruned an entire hedge or renovated a tree? Then you end up with anywhere between five and thirty bags full. That is not what you want.

Fortunately, you can use pruning waste in at least four useful ways: as a protective wood pile, chipped as mulch in your borders, stacked for insects, or properly removed. With the right choice you save money, help wildlife, and your garden gains structure. We will go through all options step by step so that at your next pruning session you know exactly what to do with it.

Wood pile: green shelter for hedgehogs and insects

The easiest and most useful choice: make a wood pile. This is nothing more than throwing those branches and twigs on a quiet corner of your garden in a heap and letting them decompose naturally. A wood pile looks untidy, your neighbours will say. But it is a goldmine for dormice, hedgehogs, ground beetles and about twenty other animal species that shelter there.

Build your wood pile best in a corner where not much happens: against a fence, under shrubs, or in a neglected back corner. Break longer branches by hand into shorter pieces (20 to 40 cm). Shake off loose leaves. Throw them in layers on top of each other: larger branches first, thin twigs on top, and if you have any leaf litter, add that too. Place the bottom layer directly on the soil so hedgehogs and insects can reach it from below. After one and a half to two years all those branches have decomposed into reworked wood full of fungi, insects and roots. You can then use it as mulch. The benefits: it costs you nothing, animals feel at home, and you have solved your pruning waste problem.

Hiring a chipper: finely chopped pruning waste ready in hours

For larger amounts of pruning waste (more than twenty bags full) hiring a wood chipper is worthwhile. A chipper is a machine that grinds branches into fine wood chips. It sounds expensive, 40 to 80 euros per day in hire costs, but it saves you much work and transport.

That is why many gardeners hire them in October and November, right after the big autumn prune. The most easily hired sizes are the small handheld version for thin branches (up to 4 cm thick) and the larger ride-on chipper for everything up to 8 to 10 cm. You feed it your pruning waste and it falls down as fine chips. With such a machine you do in two to four hours what you would otherwise do in ten to fifteen hours with secateurs. Important note: diseased wood (for example with fungal growth, sooty mould or other diseases) you do NOT chip. You store it separately and take it to the green waste disposal site. Only healthy pruning waste should be chipped.

Wood chips: mulch that lasts for years

The output from that chipper, or shop-bought wood chips, is gold in your borders. Wood chips are slowly degradable organic matter that protects the soil, retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and gradually makes your soil more fertile. Layer wood chips in your borders: between plants, around ground covers, under roses. Apply at least 5 centimetres thick, otherwise they blow away and do not work against weeds. Because they break down slowly, you do not need to replace them every year. A one-time application of 5 to 8 centimetres is enough for two to three years of protection and nutrition. Want to see first how your border looks with fresh planting and a new layer of wood chips? On gardenworld.app you can view that for free in a sample design of your own garden.

One warning: freshly chipped conifer wood chips (pine, spruce) are more acidic than deciduous chips. In the first months after application they can make your soil too acidic. So if you have pruned a lot of conifer hedging, mix those chips first with deciduous chips, or wait two months before spreading them. That is not a disaster, it is just careful planning.

Diseased wood goes away, healthy wood you can compost

This is crucial: diseased wood from your garden does NOT go in the chipper and does NOT go in your compost bin. Diseased wood contains fungi, bacteria and viruses that would spread throughout your whole garden. Branches affected by box blight, shoot blight, leaf spot or sooty mould you take to the green waste site. You cannot handle this yourself.

Healthy wood (the majority of what you prune) you can safely compost. Smaller twigs go in your compost bin between wet kitchen waste and leaf litter. Larger branches you set aside to decompose, or you chip them small.

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Burning: only under strict conditions

Many gardeners think: I will just burn those branches, problem solved. Unfortunately this is not allowed in many municipalities. Check your local rules: many places ban burning garden waste because it produces particulates and smoke. It is also a poor environmental choice, because all the nutrients simply go up in smoke; proper disposal is the better option.

If your municipality does permit it, only do so under these conditions: dry material, no wind (otherwise it blows everywhere), no plastic, no chemically treated wood (old painted fencing), no diseased wood (that spreads disease in smoke), and certainly not in the evening or at night. To be honest: burning is rarely the best solution. Chipping, combining in a wood pile or proper removal is almost always better.

Store large branches separately

For very thick branches (12 cm or thicker) a wood chipper is usually not suitable. You store these separately stacked. They decompose so slowly that it takes years. But if you stack them against your fence, they serve as support for climbing plants and they strengthen a wobbly fence.

Or you transport them yourself to your local green waste collection point. Most municipalities have drop-off points where you can take green waste for free, including thick branches. Check online where yours is located.

Step by step

Step 1: Sort your pruning waste by health

Look at each branch. Does it look grey and lifeless? Spots? Fungal growth? Then it is diseased. You store that separately. Green and smooth? Healthy. That goes in the piles.

Step 2: Small branches to wood pile or compost

All thin twigs and shoots (up to 3 cm) go to your wood pile in the corner, or broken into pieces in the compost bin. Shake off leaf litter and add that too.

Step 3: Medium branches: chip or store

Branches 4 to 8 cm: you chip these small if you hire a chipper, or you stack them in a corner. Use wood chips on your borders, or later as mulch.

Step 4: Thick branches: store separately or remove

Branches thicker than 10 cm: stack separately or take them yourself to the green waste site. Preferably the latter.

Step 5: Diseased wood straight away

All diseased branches go straight to the green waste bin or your car, and to the site. Do not mix with healthy wood.

Step 6: Spread wood chips in borders

Freshly chipped material you work straight into your borders, 5 to 8 centimetres thick. Let conifer chips wait a while or mix with deciduous chips first.

Frequently asked questions

Can I put pruning waste in my green waste bin?

Yes, but only small pieces: twigs up to maximum 2 centimetres thick and definitely no long stems. Long branches get tangled in the sorting machinery at the processing plant. Break everything small, shake off leaves, and add no more than two handfuls at a time.

How much does it cost to hire a wood chipper?

In Belgium and the Netherlands you usually pay 40 to 100 euros per day, plus possibly delivery charges. Many garden centres and landscaping contractors hire them out. Be careful: you must pay for fuel and insurance yourself. For a one-off large pruning job it is certainly worthwhile, for small pruning less so.

Can I lay wood chips on weeds?

Wood chips work against weeds only if they lie at least 5 centimetres thick AND you have first removed the weeds by hand, roots and all, or covered the soil beforehand. Thin layers of wood chips do not help and blow away. Make sure your soil is clean first.

How long does it take for pruning waste to completely decompose?

A wood pile takes one and a half to two years. Chipped material under mulch breaks down in one and a half to three years. Thick branches: five to ten years or longer. Fungi and bacteria do the work, so moisture helps. In dry summers it takes longer.

See it in your own garden first

How does your garden look after clearing all that pruning waste? Upload a photo of your garden on gardenworld.app and view a free sample of a new design. The sharp image with plant list costs 7.99 euros, one-time, no subscription.

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