Garden fences: rules, materials and costs

Fencing: more rules than you'd think

A fence seems straightforward: posts in, panels on, done. But once you look into the regulations, it becomes surprisingly complicated. Where can it go? How high? And who pays? Let's start with the facts so you don't end up in a dispute with the neighbours.

Tools like GardenWorld let you visualise a new fence in your garden before ordering. Helpful for choosing the right height and style.

UK fence rules

Height

• Rear garden: up to 2 metres without planning permission
• Front garden: up to 1 metre next to a highway
• On the boundary: legally a party fence — both neighbours share responsibility

Boundary ownership

Check your title deeds for T-marks showing which boundaries you own. If the T is on your side, the fence is your responsibility. No T-marks? The left-hand boundary (when facing the garden from the house) is a common convention, but it's not law.

If you're unsure where the exact boundary is, the Land Registry can help. Getting this wrong can lead to legal headaches.

Materials compared

Hardwood (oak, iroko)

Durable, strong and attractive. Lasts 20–30 years untreated. Price: £70–120 per linear metre at 1.8 m height. The premium option.

Softwood (larch, treated pine)

The budget choice. Pressure-treated softwood lasts 10–15 years. Price: £25–50/m¹. Available at every garden centre and DIY store. Can develop green algae after a few years.

Composite

Maintenance-free and colour-stable. Composite fencing is relatively new but gaining popularity. Price: £80–140/m¹. Sleek appearance but lacks the warmth of real wood.

Concrete posts with timber panels

A robust system: concrete posts and gravel boards with timber panels above. The posts last forever; the panels are replaceable. Price: £40–70/m¹. Visit RHS shows or garden centres to compare systems in person.

Calculating costs

For an average garden with 20 metres of fencing:

DIY saves installation costs (£12–25/m¹), but you need a spirit level, a post hole digger and ideally a second pair of hands.

Installation step by step

1. Mark the line with pegs and string
2. Dig post holes: 60–80 cm deep
3. Set the corner posts and run a string at the correct height
4. Install all posts with postcrete or concrete mix
5. Check everything is level and aligned
6. Hang the panels or attach boards

Concrete or timber posts?

Concrete posts last a lifetime and never rot. Timber posts are cheaper and easier to work with but eventually decay in the ground. My recommendation: concrete posts, timber panels. Best of both worlds.

Maintenance

Softwood: stain or paint every 2–3 years. Hardwood: leave to silver or oil annually. Composite: rinse with a hose occasionally. Concrete posts: absolutely nothing. That's the beauty of concrete.

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