Planting and caring for roses

The queen of the garden

Roses have a reputation as demanding divas, but with the right approach they're surprisingly rewarding. Modern cultivars are more disease-resistant than ever and flower from June to the first frost. From compact patio roses to exuberant climbers, there's a rose for every garden. Garden centres and RHS recommended nurseries stock wide selections, often with disease-resistance ratings.

With GardenWorld you can preview how plants will look in your actual garden. Test roses in your border and discover which colours and forms suit your garden style.

Choosing the right rose

Shrub roses form the backbone of any rose garden. They grow 60 to 120 centimetres tall and repeat-flower reliably. 'Leonardo da Vinci' (pink, fully double) and 'Iceberg' (white, profuse) are dependable choices.

Climbing roses cover pergolas, walls and arches. They reach 2 to 5 metres. 'New Dawn' (soft pink) and 'Pierre de Ronsard' (cream-pink) rank among the most popular.

Ground cover roses spread low and flower for months. Perfect for banks and wide borders. 'The Fairy' (pink) and 'Flower Carpet' are widely used.

Standard roses form an elegant ball on a stem. Ideal as a focal point in a formal garden or beside a driveway.

When and how to plant

The best time for bare root roses is November to March. Container roses go in year-round, but avoid midsummer heat. Choose a sunny position with at least six hours of direct sunlight. Roses love well-drained, rich clay soil.

Dig a generous hole 40 by 40 centimetres and 40 deep. Mix the excavated soil with compost and a handful of well-rotted manure. Position the rose so the graft union sits 5 centimetres below ground level. This protects against frost and encourages rooting from the grafted variety.

Firm the soil and water with at least 10 litres. Apply mulch but keep it away from the stems.

Pruning: the key to success

Prune shrub roses in March, just as buds begin to swell. Remove dead and weak wood. Cut healthy stems back to 3 to 5 buds above ground, slicing just above an outward-facing bud. This directs growth outward and keeps the centre open.

Climbing roses are pruned differently. Train the main stems as horizontally as possible. In winter, cut side shoots back to 2 to 3 buds. Horizontal training encourages more flowers along the entire length.

Throughout the season, remove spent flowers to the first five-leaflet leaf. This encourages new blooms and prevents seed formation.

Dealing with pests and diseases

Powdery mildew appears as white powder on leaves. Improve air circulation by spacing plants properly and pruning to an open centre. Resistant varieties reduce the risk significantly.

Black spot causes brown patches with yellow halos on leaves. Collect affected foliage and bin it rather than composting.

Aphids appear in spring on young shoots. Ladybirds often solve the problem. For heavy infestations, spray with a mild soap solution.

Where possible choose varieties with disease-resistance awards. They've been tested without chemical intervention.

Feeding and watering

Roses are hungry plants. Apply an organic rose feed in April and repeat in June after the first flush. Stop feeding after August so the plant can harden off for winter.

Water at the base, not over the foliage. Wet leaves encourage fungal diseases. In dry spells give 10 to 15 litres per plant weekly.

Companion plants

Roses look stunning with lavender, catmint, geraniums and delphiniums. Lavender at the base helps deter aphids with its strong scent. Ornamental grasses like stipa add lightness.

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